lower off - climbing anchor

The climbing lower off, also known as climbing anchor, is the heart of every climbing route. After all, you can only get back to the ground safely via a perfectly installed belay. We will therefore give you some important tips below.

Correct position of the climbing lower off
A belay should be easy to clip from a stable position. Ideally, the abseil carabiner should be at chest height.

If possible, make sure that the carabiner hangs freely. Chafing of the rope on the rock should be avoided at all costs. Consequently, it is sometimes better to place a climbing anchor under a ledge than above it.

The position is often even more important on alpine routes. This is because you may also want to hang a sling there. Like a rappelling sling, for example.
Avoid galvanic corrosion
You have to be careful when installing lower offs when climbing. Especially if they are installed expansion bolt.

This is because different steel qualities in the stand and bolts lead to galvanic corrosion. Our article“Galvanic corrosion at expansion bolt” provides more information on this.

This means that you must not use zinc-plated expansion bolt with a stainless steel lower off. And vice versa, of course.
climbing anchor Do not stretch!
Unfortunately, you often see stands with heavily tensioned chains. However, this leads to increased tension corrosion. Simply explained. This leads to stress in the steel. It can micro-crack and rust more easily. Consequently, it is better if the climbing anchor sags slightly.
Climbing lower off with glue in bolt
Stands with glue in bolt can only be injection mortar be attached. Installation with glass mortar cartridges is not possible. This is because the second glue in bolt of the stand can no longer be turned accordingly. Consequently, the adhesive must first be filled in cleanly. Then insert the glue in bolt carefully.
Maintenance of climbing anchors
Once a stand has been installed, it also requires appropriate maintenance.

This is legally stipulated for climbing garden operators in Austria anyway. This means an annual inspection and documentation in the route book.

The abseiling carabiner should also be oiled at the same time. If it is badly worn, it should also be replaced.