Strength tests expansion bolt and glue in bolt

bolting.eu is THE expert when it comes to climbing infrastructure. That’s why we also carry out professional strength tests on expansion bolt. These tests are also known colloquially as“pull-out tests of express anchors“.

Of course, we can also carry out these tests for glue in bolt for

To date, we have received our orders from two customer groups. Firstly, from various climbing garden owners. They usually want a clear statement as to whether old belay points still comply with the safe values of the EN 959 standard. The values determined then usually provide information about necessary renovations.

And secondly, by project planners and leisure providers. Here we test the strength of fixed points in artificial structures such as stone or concrete walls. This is the basis for TÜV testing of climbing facilities and the EN 12572-1 standard. This means that reliable statements can be made about the feasibility of project planning.

If you are interested in our service, you can simply send us an e-mail.

Send request!
Climbers in a rock face during a strength test of expansion bolt in sandstone.
Strength testing in the climbing area. We provide objective information as to whether old belay points still comply with standards.

Strength testing of expansion bolt as a basis for planning

We are usually contacted by customers with precisely these two questions.

Firstly. Are our old fixed points in the climbing area still safe? What do the old expansion bolt or glue in bolt still hold?

And secondly. Can we build a climbing facility on our concrete wall that is approved by TÜV?

In both cases, our pull-out test provides a reliable statement.

Strength test of expansion bolt on a concrete wall by a worker wearing a white T-shirt.
Pull-out tests as a planning basis for project developers. Like here on an old silo. It is already being climbed!

expansion bolt Pull-out tests in climbing areas

We use our calibrated and annually calibrated pull-out device to check the fixed points in climbing areas.

On the one hand, this is standard content in our bolting workshops and courses. On the other hand, we do this for climbing garden owners.

This is because they are often unsure whether old securing points are still reliable. In other words, whether they meet the requirements of the EN 959 standard. These are 15kN axial and 25kN radial.

However, we only test the axial values, as a test setup for radial tests would be much more complex and expensive. However, we can of course carry this out on request.

During the axial test, we carry out a “destruction test”. Or to put it another way. The tested securing points can no longer be used afterwards.

In any case, we can provide clarity after our expansion bolt pull-out tests. Is a climbing area rebolting necessary or not. As e.g. with our orders for the DAV Wiesbaden, DAV Heidelberg, steir. Mountain Guide Association, etc…

One of our most exciting projects was the inspection of a possible new climbing area. The fundamental question here was what glue in bolt would hold in the somewhat questionable rock.

In this specific case, the test was worth its weight in gold. This is because our pull-out test revealed a highly inhomogeneous strength behavior with 10 test hooks. With some samples below 10kN. Consequently, there was clarity and the project had to be discontinued in this specific case.

Aiszug test as part of a workshop for Petzl Germany in the Kochel climbing area – Photo: Julian Bückers

expansion bolt Strength tests in concrete

The following question often arises for project developers. Is it possible to build climbing routes in existing concrete walls that can also be approved by TÜV?

For this purpose, we carry out a strength test at glue in bolt. We glue these with different injection mortar adhesive.

We check whether the strength values meet the EN 12572-1 standard criteria. After all, they are used as intermediate protection and for the lower offs – climbing anchors at the top.

Depending on the concrete quality or masonry thickness, express anchors are also tested.

Indirectly, this also clarifies whether climbing holds can also be attached. For this purpose, we also check the strength of the concrete dowels into which the climbing hold screws will later be inserted.

Pull-out test of glue in bolt on a concrete wall by worker with white T-shirt.
Pull-out tests in concrete for a customer project in Lower Austria.

What do our expansion bolt pull-out tests cost?

We charge for strength tests:

  • € 0,42 km-money
  • Travel time flat rate € 100,- up to 1,5h, € 200,- up to 3h and € 350,- up to 5h, above that reduced daily rate € 450,-
  • Daily rate € 590,- or half-day fee 390,-
    (depending on the time required and the total number of test points)

All prices excl. 20% VAT.

Pull-out test as part of the advanced training of the Styrian Mountain Guide Association in Pürgg.

DAV main association funding

Since 2023, the DAV federal association has been promoting the development and renovation of climbing routes in the Alps and low mountain ranges.

In the course of our courses, DAV sections can therefore be reimbursed for material costs via this funding. In addition, an honorary allowance for members in the amount of € 16,- can be claimed for the participating members.

You can find all information on the promotion campaign in the following download.

DAV program funding guidelines