Stubai piton

The extensive Stubai piton range. Graphic: bolting.eu

Stubai piton are very popular in the alpine scene. This is because the normal pitons from the Austrian manufacturer Stubai Bergsport are of high quality. The selection is also surprisingly large.

On the one hand, there are five models of soft metal hooks. And three models of soft metal hooks. This covers a wide range of hook insertion options.Stubai piton for granite and gneissThese types of rock “break” relatively straight. This is why normal pitons made of chrome steel are generally used here. Sometimes you also read the term “chrome-molybdenum steel”. In any case, these are the so-called hard metal pitons.

Firstly, they are characterized by their hardness. This means that the belay points can be hammered firmly into the rock. Secondly, they can also withstand the stress of falls.

Secondly, they are highly resistant to corrosion. This means they last for many years in alpine terrain.

Thirdly, the steel can be bent enough so that it can be easily deformed. This is also desired when hammering in the metal hooks. Consequently, the hooks can also be “nailed out” again and “bent into shape”.Stubai piton “Bong”The bong is a wide, solid normal hook.

Stubai is the only manufacturer worldwide for this type of hook.

Bongs are specially designed for wide cracks. On the one hand, bongs are great for tying off with cordalettes or webbing slings. On the other hand, you can also attach carabiners to the eyelets.

With this type of normal hook, you need to be a little careful when attaching it to scales. This is because they develop a great explosive effect. Therefore, pay attention to the phenomenon of the “expamding flake” when attaching them. This means that the entire flake may “push away” from the rock. This may cause other hooks to become loose.

Bongs are very heavy. As a result, an Alpine hook set usually only contains 1-2 pieces.Profile hookThe V-shaped Stubai piton is THE classic normal hook. This is because it can be used in an extremely wide variety of ways. It can be placed anywhere where slightly wider cracks can be found. The two separate metal surfaces provide the desired friction on the rock.

The hook is available in three sizes, each with different widths. Firstly 70mm. Secondly 100mm. And thirdly 115mm.

This means that intersecting cracks, transverse cracks and small crack holes can be used as placements. A hook set usually includes 1-2 hooks per size.Stubai piton – Diagonal hooksThis normal hook type is intended for narrow cracks and intersections.

The 45° turned carabiner eye gives the hook its typical appearance. However, there are also special options for use.

In rectangular intersections, the diagonal hook is often the best solution. This allows you to attach an oval carabiner without having to “tie off”.

Three lengths are available: firstly 70mm, secondly 100mm. And thirdly 130mm. The robust hooks are quite heavy. Consequently, only 1-2 pieces find their way into the regular hook range.Stubai ring hookThe ring hook is simply the version of the diagonal hook with a fixed ring. The ring on this normal hook fulfills several functions.

Firstly, you can set the hook almost anywhere. This is because it is possible to attach a carabiner as well as thread a sling through it.

Secondly, you can “fold” the ring in one direction. This means that it doesn’t matter if the hook rests completely on one side of the rock.

Thirdly, the ring hook is used if you want the carabiner to be parallel to the rock at all times.

Fourthly, you can also go straight through the ring if necessary rappelling. We strongly recommend a solid backup in this case.

Two lengths are available: 95mm and 125mm. Due to the high weight, usually only 1 piece is packed in an Alpinrack.
Stubai piton – Angled hookThis Stubai piton is designed for narrow cracks and slots. The model from the Tyrolean manufacturer is relatively thin. That is why it is sometimes also referred to as “knifeblade”. These designations are somewhat blurred depending on the manufacturer.

The thin hook has the carabiner eye at 90° to the impact surface. This makes it easy to place in intersections.

This normal hook type is available with three different impact lengths. The shortest version is 35mm long. This is followed by the 55mm and finally the 75mm version.

A good granite hook set usually contains at least one hook per size.Stubai knifebladeThe smallest Stubai piton. This little guy is just 50mm long. The hook is only driven in 35mm.Consequently, this normal piton is not intended as a belay, but as a point of progression for technical climbing. There it is often referred to as a “rurp”.Stubai piton for lime and dolomiteThese two types of rock are not only relatively similar chemically. They both “break” very irregularly. This means that cracks, holes and slits are usually very uneven. Consequently, “soft” hooks are ideal here because they adapt better to the many irregularities.

This is why there are so-called “soft metal hooks”. These are hooks made from soft steel alloys. These standard hooks can bend and twist considerably. Nevertheless, they have very good corrosion resistance and breaking values.Stubai produces three different types of mild steel hooks. Firstly, an angle hook. Secondly, a diagonal hook. And thirdly, a ring hook. We present the models in more detail below.Stubai soft metal angle hookLike its “hard” brother, this Stubai piton is designed for narrower cracks and slots. The carabiner eye is at 90° to the direction of impact. This gives you relatively good leeway for intersections and transverse cracks.
The three different lengths provide a wide range of impact options. The range extends from 50 mm to 70 mm and up to 90 mm in length. Consequently, every limestone or dolomite hook set includes at least one hook per size!Stubai soft metal – ring hook diagonalWith the 45° twisted carabiner eyelet, this Stubai piton can be used very universally. In addition, the swivel ring provides further flexibility in the selection of normal hook placements.

The two lengths of 95mm and 125mm are perhaps a little too long. This means you have to find relatively “deep” crack marks, which is not always easy.

A solid hook set for the Dolomites has 1 hook per size.Stubai soft metal – V-ring hookThis Stubai piton is long. Really really really long. The normal hook with the typical V-profile has 140mm impact length. It is therefore ideal for wide and deep cracks. This is the ideal abseil bolt or belay bolt in emergency situations.

The standard dolomite hook set has a maximum of one V-ring hook.Stubai rock hammer RockyThe right hammer for the Stubai piton is the Rocky climbing hammer. The super-balanced rock hammer is our absolute recommendation. A top hammer at a sensational price.

What makes the Rocky stand out is its great balance. On the one hand, the hammer is not too heavy or too long. On the other hand, it has a super “pull” and plenty of striking power. This is exactly how a rock hammer should be. Its price is also a real bargain.

It’s not for nothing that this hammer is the best-selling model in our store! Most of our customers also buy the “Leash” fall protection leash.FAQ’sWhere can I buy Stubai piton?
The Austrian climbing online store bolting.eu offers the entire range of hooks from Stubai at top prices.

Where can I buy Stubai normal hooks in Tyrol?
The climbing online store bolting.eu in Innsbruck offers the entire range of hooks from Stubai at top prices. Collection from the warehouse can be arranged during business hours.

Why is Stubai piton available in hard metal and soft metal?
We at bolting.eu are happy to answer this frequently asked question.
At piton, the hard metal hooks are intended for hard rocks such as granite and gneiss. In the relatively regular cracks, piton made of hard steel hold better.

piton made of soft metal, on the other hand, are perfect for soft rocks. For example, limestone and dolomite. Here, the flexible hooks can be hammered very well into the irregular cracks. This is because they bend more easily.